The Barbary Next Door, 16a, Neal’s Yard, WC2

If you were interested in London restaurants in 2016, you'll have queued outside The Barbary. The Covent Garden brainchild of siblings Zoe and Layo Paskin, it was a celebration of North African and Moorish cooking. With only in her teens dreamed of finding a cool neighbourhood restaurant where she could hunker down with friends. This feels like that sort of place, in Zone One. But the food at 192 was, if memory serves, mostly rocket and balsamic vinegar, and you won't find either here.