Pfffff! The first hippo breaks the surface with a hydraulic hiss. Suddenly that familiar face is staring at you from alarmingly close, all bristling muzzle, rosy jowls and goggle eyes. Another pops up beside it. Their expressions are hard to read: cross or simply curious? Your guide doesn’t wait to find out but digs in a paddle and pulls briskly towards the bank, motioning you to do the same.
No worries. By now, you’ve learnt the hippo protocol. It’s their river, not yours, so you
