DIY SAFARI TRIPS
I first visited Kenya in 1981. My girlfriend and I camped wild in a homemade, mosquito-proof tent and only stayed in cheap hotels when there was no option.
Cycling around the country over the course of six months, we glimpsed the occasional zebra or giraffe, a monkey here and a gazelle there. But we didn’t experience Africa’s wildlife spectacle until a local acquaintance mentioned he was going to the Maasai Mara to see the wildebeest migration and offered us a ride.
Cresting a hill as we approached the Mara River, a vast landscape of wildebeest-covered plains stretched out in front of us. Over the next few days we saw countless animals and witnessed plenty of wildlife drama, from lion cubs learning to hunt to wildebeest river crossings. We were mock-charged by an elephant and we lay awake, wide-eyed in our tent at night, as hyenas whooped in the bush just yards away. We had a magical time and it cost us very little. We were