Coast

SOS: SAVE OUR SAIL

Dusk on Cornwall’s Helford river, August 2020: a rising moon wobbles in glassy water, rooks craw to their roosts and the background angst of that first pandemic summer evaporates. Or it does for us guests aboard Bessie Ellen. For two decades the 115ft sailing ship has run successful cruises, bunking holidaymakers in the refurbished hold that shipped china clay in the early 1900s, army-surplus wire after the First World War and iron after the Second. At the start of 2020, a busy season lay ahead. You can probably guess what happened. I’m on the vessel’s first private charter as owner-captain Nikki Alford (thrillingly, a distant relative of Captain Bligh of mutiny on the fame) attempts to claw back some revenue – any revenue – from a season thrown into chaos by Covid.

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