THE DROP
Surfers have oceanic personalities.
We are both light and shadow.
Peaks and troughs.
Frothing. Then flat.
At times we’re hypocritical, though we’d hate to admit it. We love the ocean and are environmentalists at heart, yet we drive cars and, like all humans, produce copious amounts of rubbish.
Surfers are romantics. No, we’re not talking lovey-dovey, Valentine Day types. Instead, the term romantic comes from the old “Roman” language: an idealist, optimist, or dreamer.
We spend the best part of our lives visiting stunning seascapes. Both light and shadow are necessary to see true beauty. But balance is needed. Nature has
