NORTHERN EXPOSURE
The 300 kilometres from Ignace to Pickle Lake began as an excellent tar and chip route that rose and fell through forested Crown land. Soon, alder and willow began to crowd the diminishing road to obscurity — not unexpected on the most northerly paved road in Ontario. Less expected was when my travelling partner, Cliff, and I happened upon Savant Lake, a settlement comprising a Post Office (in a house), one hotel with dining lounge (both closed), and Ennis Grocery & LCBO, which offered food staples, children’s toys, two shovels, a rake, one love seat, a picnic table, one mattress (Queen), two CRT TVs, and live minnows in an aerated tank.
As our Ojibway server made us a cup of coffee in her personal Keurig, I noticed a window sign turned inward: “Closed for Lunch.” And another, “For gas after hours, see Dennis at the hotel, or call 584-2253. Fill-ups only.” Above the door two tattered flags waved in the breeze: The Maple Leaf and, by the way it was torn, the “Stars and Strips.”
Back on the road, we scared a bald eagle from its breakfast of fresh skunk. And then the construction
