ROMANTIC RETREATS

ROSELAND PENINSULA

pring comes early to the west of Cornwall, warmed by the Gulf Stream, where the Roseland Peninsula is washed by reflected light from the Fal Estuary and St Austell Bay. It is a harmonious mix of sandy beaches, secluded coves, wooded valleys, dramatic headlands and picturesque hamlets. Caerhays Castle, built by Regency architect John Nash, stands in woodland gardens ablaze with rhododendrons and camellias, home to champion trees and a century-old magnolia. One of England’s prettiest churches, the 13th-century, creekside St Just in Roseland, almost dips a toe in the water. At Miss V’s tea room, in the subtropical gardens, a Cornish cream tea comes with just-baked