Cook's Illustrated

HOW BEEF CAME TO EVERY HAWAIIAN TABLE

eef has long been a thread in the vibrant, multicultural tapestry of local Hawaiian cooking, but this wasn’t exactly (1996). “They would leave them in strategic spots and hope that they’d multiply and become provisions in the future.” At Vancouver’s urging, the king even put a temporary moratorium on slaughtering the animals. The cattle multiplied so dramatically over the next few decades that the Hawaiian monarchy hired cowboys from the then-Mexican territory of California to help control them. The upshot: the birth of cattle ranching on these islands—and beef not only on British tables but also on native Hawaiians’ and those of all the immigrant groups who settled on the archipelago.

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