A taste of the top 2020 northern Rhônes
Côte-Rôtie
1 KEY PRODUCER Domaine JP Jamet, Côte Brune 99
Beautifully fragrant and floral: rose and violet characters. Super-fine, silky tannins and lovely acidity. This is an eminently classic Côte Brune, with flowers, cinnamon, black olive, rosemary and perfectly ripe, bright blackberries. It has a tapered finish – not the same concentration and power as 2019, but with great finesse and elegance of expression. Beautifully balanced and very hard to fault. Drink 2022-2050
KEY PRODUCER & RED WINE OF THE VINTAGE: NORTHERN RHONE Domaine Rostaing, Côte Brune 99
A compelling rose fragrance, then such wonderfully rounded, juicy tannins in the mouth. Perfectly balanced and fresh, but explosive, long, flamboyant, captivating. Pliable, springy tannins. A stunning wine. Picked on 26 August. It had four weeks in tank, 18 months in oak (limited new oak), fermented with natural yeasts and as many stems as possible. Drink 2023-2038 Alc 14%
KEY PRODUCER Stéphane Ogier, Lancement 98
POA Montrachet
Particularly compelling, this might be worthy of a higher score once bottled. Perfect acidity, great aromatic expression and amazing precision. Raspberry, olive and bay leaf, with a tremulous finish, this is a great expression of Lancement. Very special indeed, an elegant, beautiful wine. Drink 2025-2035
2 KEY PRODUCER & TOP VALUE Xavier Gérard 97
POA Wonderfully fresh and expressive, with a touch of black pepper hiding among the menthol and the deep, dark berry fruits. Medium- to full-bodied, this has stacks of rich, sweet berry fruit and driving acidity, then ends neat and precise. Very well-integrated oak brings a spicy complexity, but the site is more prominent than the method. It’s arguably not as deep as the 2015, but this is nonetheless a hugely enjoyable wine. A blend of lieux-dits Le Mollard (near Côte-Blonde), La Viallière, La Brosse and La Landonne. Tasted 2022-2035
