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STAY HERE

As dusk falls, shadows push their dark tendrils into the landscape. They creep into cracks and crevices, making the rocks come alive. This one looks like an enormous skull, that one like a ship sailing on sand…

I’m here with my wife and our two boys. Along with our guide, Robyn Keyes, we’re the only people for kilometres around. The campfire throws firelight onto Skull Rock as Robyn whips up a braai feast. The moon rises, tracked by Venus, and

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