IF THERE WERE ONLY ONE DISH that was essentially New Orleanian but relatively unknown outside the Crescent City, gumbo z’Herbes would be it. This gumbo, which eschews the typical seafood and chicken-and-sausage flavor combinations, centers on a variety of hearty greens that receive a flavor boost from smoked pork. Traditionally served on Holy Thursday (also known as Maundy Thursday), this annual dish sustains and invigorates Catholic diners for the Good Friday fast and has served as a community gathering point at a few Creole establishments, like Dooky Chase’s Restaurant.
Traditional gumbo and pronounced “gumbo zerb,” “zab,” or “zeb,” starts with a collection of hearty greens (often including cabbage, radish and carrot tops, mustard greens, parsley, and watercress) and hunks of salty ham hocks. The resulting dish has a deep, earthy richness and vibrant color that is unmatched by other versions of gumbo. While gumbo z’Herbes has become a New Orleans tradition, its ties to the cultures that mixed in the city are undeniable. West African callaloo, French , and even German “Green Thursday Soup” (another Holy Thursday dish) show remarkable resemblances to the gumbo z’Herbes we know today.
