Gourmet Traveller

UNDER THE RADAR

At most restaurants, if diners get up and walk out on a regular basis, it’s cause for alarm. At Pino’s – a charming Italian spot in the Newcastle suburb of Islington – it’s something of a matter of course.

“At least once a week, we'll get tables that just walk straight out,” says director and chef Dion May. On top of the walk-outs, there’s a pretty good chance of copping an earful of negative feedback. “It happens at least a good few times a week, if not nightly,” he says.

These strong reactions aren’t about the quality of the food. Or even what’s on the menu. Rather, it’s what’s not on the menu that sends diners into a tailspin. Because although Pino’s is

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