On our plates or in the rivers?

EATING salmon, particularly smoked salmon, was, historically, a treat for special occasions. Back then it would have been wild salmon – before the great decline in populations, prompting the phasing out of the netting industry and the necessity for conservation measures. Wild Atlantic salmon no longer feature in fishmongers or on restaurant menus.

From the 1990s, the demise of wild salmon coincided with the inexorable growth and availability of a vastly inferior product: the ubiquitous farmed