Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

MINUTES INTO MY hour-long flight from New Delhi, I see curious eyes glued to the window. I peer over my co-passenger’s shoulders to see what is making everyone’s head turn. The lunar landscape of Leh, paired with spotless blue skies, is a mesmerising sight. The tiny defence airport is surprisingly crowded. Ladakh seems to have drawn tourists from around the country, all desperate to quench their thirst for travel after many months of staying cooped up. I too am eager to discover the many famous wonders of India’s northernmost region, not suspecting in the least that it will be the people who will leave the most lasting impressions on me.

A FAMILY AWAY FROM HOME

It begins at my homestay in Fiang, a village in the Leh district. A petite woman greets me at the doorstep and

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