RECOGNISING regional expression is one of the holy grails in the enjoyments of wine and an aspiration for wine producing countries. Being able to open a bottle and clearly smell and taste the keynotes of a particular region adds value and is a cognitive enhancement that separates wine from other beverages. The French market this as terroir. A term cloaked in mystery. It encompasses the soil, subsoil, and the microclimate that the vine grows in. Many commentators add the impact of the viticulturalist and winemaker into the definition, especially where customs and practices have been developed over centuries.
In Australia
