GROWTH SPURT BLOOD AND BARRELS AT THE MENTS’ MOST GNARLY SPOT
WE ALL WATCHED IN HORROR AS DENNIS HACKED AROUND THE GASH, REMOVING CHUNKS OF CORAL
It was late at night, and I was already in bed when Greig Sharp called. Swell chase to Greenbush!
Two hard-charging freesurfers - Nic von Rupp and Nate Behl - had asked Greig to take them down to Greenbush on his 45-foot catamaran. Greig needed an extra hand, and I knew my way around the boat.
I chatted to my folks. We agreed that I was ‘ready'. We have some proper slabs in our area, and I've been charging hard. What an opportunity this was! Plus my dad knew that Greig would look out for me - and most of the trip would fall over a weekend, so I wouldn't miss too much school.
It was on!
With only a few hours' notice I scrambled around Bilou (the Mentawai surf lodge I have the privilege of calling my home), trying to find a suitable board that would handle the biggest south swell of the year. I settled on my trusty step-up from Grow, and my dad's old Pyzel Ghost.
It took 13 hours to get down there, and we motored the whole night. To decide the night watches, we pulled out a deck of cards. Whoever
