WHO’S WHO IN RIOJA
ABEL MENDOZA MONGE
Abel Mendoza Monge epitomises free-thinking and a long-term vision for Rioja Alavesa. His approach is to observe his vineyards, research their history, and interpret them in ways that, although new, are also deeply respectful of the land and culture.
Mendoza’s family were vine-growers, but he showed an early interest in making wine, too. Later, he teamed up with his wife Maite and launched a wine project that, while unmistakably Rioja, is also a flagship for innovation and originality.
Their winemaking principles are simple to define, but difficult to apply: know and respect your roots; explore the best expressions of your vines and wines, with no constraints to innovation; accept diversity; push for top quality and look beyond your lifetime, with the hope of leaving your land in a better state.
Mendoza’s wines show how the couple have accomplished their vision: instead of abandoning Alavesa’s classic cosechero (carbonic maceration) – as most other wineries did – they reimagined it as a joyous but complex style known as jarrarte.
Similarly, instead of replacing the unpopular Malvasía Riojana and Torrontés varieties, they have used them to create some of the best white wines in Rioja. Indeed, theirs is likely to be the only singlevariety Torrontés in the world (note: this has nothing to do with Argentinian Torrontés). Their blend of five white varieties is another rare, unique exploit.
However, Mendoza’s speciality is Tempranillo: delicately cultured, indigenous vines. A grape whose wines excel only when a vine’s perfect balance is attained. Although great terroirs provide the conditions, the keys for success are deeply human: knowledge, respect for nature, experimentation and long-term vision. Abel and Maite’s wines – and their ethos – are a benchmark for all. PBT
