The Tunnel
Having been prevented from entering Tajikistan when half a mountain collapsed onto Kyrgyzstan’s Taldyk Pass moments before we reached it, blocking it for ten days, my son Gareth and I had two options: attempt to negotiate a 150 km-long donkey track across the Alau Mountain Range, or take a six-day detour around the rock fall.
Predictably, high up near the snow line, the donkey track ended in deep scree that tumbled into a river hundreds of feet below, and we had to turn back — but that’s another story.
So, it was the long detour, then…
We continued steadily along fairly good roads, although the fierce heat was a constant and unwelcome presence. We finally crossed into Tajikistan and began climbing the first of two mountain ranges above 3,000 metres that we needed to cross before reaching Dushanbe. We were now on Highway M34. Near the top of the first pass, we came upon the opening of the Anzob Tunnel and were waved to a stop by a policeman.
which forced the long way around through The Tunnel.
Louder Than Words
He walked toward us and, after pleasantries had been exchanged, he informed us that, sadly, we were not permitted to proceed through the tunnel. This in sign language, of course —hands gripping handlebars, right hand revving then arms held across his chest in a clearly negating X.
THE SMOKE WE’D SEEN EARLIER WASN’T SMOKE AT ALL; IT WAS DIESEL FUMES
We asked why. I saw our attempt on the Pamir Highway and the Bartang Pass receding once again.
He pointed
