The Top End is full of creatures that can do you damage. The most dangerous is Crocodylus porosus, known to locals as the “Salty.”
So when we arrive at one of the most remote national parks in the Northern Territory -- Garig Gunak Barlu, deep in West Arnhem Land on the Cobourg Peninsula, 570km from Darwin -- we decide against a swim, even though the weather is typically hot and sticky and the sparkling turquoise waters of the Arafura Sea look almost irresistibly inviting.
The official warning on swimming at Garig reads as follows: “Saltwater crocodiles cruise the beaches and sharks,
