The Great Outdoors

THE FOREST’S DEPTH

MOST VISITORS left this far northern corner of Sweden weeks ago. An autumnal chill cuts through the October air with steely purpose and the first winter snow is imminent. Last night the aurora borealis danced above our tents, but today has been consistently overcast – until now. Descending the mountain, we stop transfixed, just short of the tree-line. A glowing forest of golden birch is suddenly unveiled, sweeping below us, brilliantly bathed in slanting sunlight. A cloud inversion fills the valley bottom. Creeping ghostily upwards in long, grasping fingers, the forest becomes swathed in its enmeshing gauze.

We’re on the edge of the lesser-known Pärlälven ancient mountain forest nature reserve, just to the south of the high summits and glaciers of the famed Sarek National Park. Before it gets dark, we plunge below the tree-line, gladly surrendering ourselves to the forest’s embrace. Nestled

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