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  • New Zealand Listener

    Happy tastes

    Oct 03, 2021 4 minutes

    For Filipinos, fried chicken is the taste of happiness. It’s memories of afternoon merienda (snacks) with friends and of family dinners. It came into our consciousness in the early 20th century with the American occupation, when two fried-chicken houses also emerged. Today, they characterise the two camps: crunchy Jollibee Chicken-joy or light Max’s Restaurant-style.

    I chow into both, but when it comes to pulutan (beer food), a favourite food group in the Philippines, I can’t go past the crust and crackle of the former. As soon as it comes out of the oil, I plunge it into sweet, sticky banana catsup (ketchup) to glaze instead of serving it on the

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