BBC Music Magazine

Chicago United States

Landing at Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport can be spectacular. Below you a teeming metropolis of 2.7 million people stretches westward into open prairie country. To the east, the city’s streets abut the shoreline of mighty Lake Michigan, a vast expanse of water two-thirds the size of England. In winter, when it freezes over, it can be hard to tell where city ends and lake begins.

Two blocks west of the waterfront, on busy South

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