Lost haven of old Wales

On a typical summer’s day, 50,000 cars stream across the Severn bridges into Wales on the M4. Many will be visitors dreaming of Gower, Pembrokeshire and the Brecon Beacons. And though it’s impossible not to be thrilled by the vistas of the vast estuary, few people will stop to look closely at the magical coastal landscape to the south as they speed west.

These Gwent Levels, a peaceful, pastoral wetland realm with unique history, wildlife and atmosphere, have only recently been saved from an expansion of the very motorway that encourages people to ignore them. But with the M4 threat receding for now, and reports of cranes and other rare birds nesting here, it’s high time to explore.

“The freshwater flowing from the higher lands in the north gives the Levels their unique quality”

The Gwent Levels run from Cardiff in the west to Chepstow