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Hike under a full Karoo moon

It’s just after 1am on a Sunday, deep in the Karoo. The moon is almost full but it’s playing hide-and-seek. It draws silver linings around the clouds that hang like shredded flags against the dark grey sky.

Seven people walk in silence on a deserted jeep track, rarely used even by day. Their boots crunch on the gravel. Then a disembodied voice with an American accent says: “You have walked two kilometres.” It’s coming from the side pocket of Estelle van Dyk’s backpack, where her Samsung is emitting a blue glow. In reality, Estelle has already walked 10km because yesterday, upon her arrival at Bergvallei farm, she walked 8 km in the early evening.

It’s hard to find Bergvallei on Google Maps – what you need is the 3222AA “Reiersvlei” map by the Chief Directorate: National Geo-spatial Information. You’ll see that the farm is in the

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