Thin air and mega views
The journey begins in a rickety old Land Cruiser, chugging its way up the mountainside from Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge; 8km of pitching and bouncing along the utterly neglected road to the Sentinel car park. You could take your own vehicle, but only if you’re not precious about it.
At the car park, we sidle over to the ranger’s desk to fill in the mountain register, a mandatory deed for all hikers. With the necessary admin done, we make our way to the trailhead. Gustav Greffrath from Itchyfeet SA, the lead guide for this excursion, delivers a brief safety talk and then turns to begin the ascent. Behind him is Anton Granger, a candidate mountain leader undergoing assessment. He is followed by Sgu Sithole, a porter; and Godfrey Tshuma, a guide in training. Then it’s photographer Andrew Dunkin, and his wife Anje. Trail runner Taryn McLintock follows them, and then my partner Ashleigh Baker, on her first high Berg hike. I bring up the rear, excited to be hiking “on holiday” for a change.
DAY 1 7KM Sentinel car park to Bilanjil Falls
Starting at over 2500m above sea level, the effort of the climb is immediately palpable. The crisp, mountain air burns its way down my chest with each heavy breath. It takes some time to settle into a rhythm. My eyes follow the track along the rippled green tapestry until it bends out of sight behind the lower reaches of the Sentinel. To our right, sunlit spurs and shadowed gullies slope into the valley towards the distant
