Wanderlust

ANCIENT SECRETS by rail

On the edge of the forest, beyond the pagodas and giant buddhas of the ancient ruins of Sukhothai, lost in gnarled roots and tangled vines, was a midden of ancient rubble. It was almost indistinguishable from the fallen leaves – a small mound like a tiny long-barrow.

Just for curiosity I rooted around with my feet, clearing a patch of vegetation and stones. Half-submerged in soil, I saw what looked like a piece of broken plant pot. I pulled it out. It was a small disc, with tiny, molded feet. Worms and nematodes, moss and liverworts had created a pattern of intricate tracery across its surface. Rain wash from the soil was so deeply soaked-in that it had left organic, stippled stains.

“Let me see that,” said Khun Thakham, looking surprised. I handed it to the guide, who carefully examined the object in her hands.

“Do you know what this is?”

I shook my head.

“It’s an ancient firing stand. It was made for a porcelain celadon vase to sit on as it hardened – some-700 years ago. This rubble must be the ruins of a kiln.”

She looked towards me, turning the disc in her hand like it was a precious object.

“It seems your search for Thailand’s secrets is paying off. The vase this forgotten stand was made for would have been a real treasure – hardened by temperatures hotter than a volcano; jade green; covered in peony-flower patterns, its porcelain as smooth and polished as a jewel... It perhaps would have been sent to China, to Angkor or even the court of the Siamese king himself.”

“The Emerald Buddha was a glowing focus of energy, clothed in an exquisite cape of filigree gold. I felt that tingle again as I gazed at it, hypnotised”

I looked at the little disc – a relic of a glorious past in a city of ruined buildings, buried for centuries. When this stand

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