"You’re actually standing on the 1,000-year-old tombstone of an Armenian royal,” smiled Sira, my all-knowing Armenian history guide. Was I so careless not to see it? Looking down I realised the entire floor of the narthex was actually made up of tombstones – yet I was inside the Katoghike Church of Sanahin Monastery. “You don’t need to worry – that is exactly how they’d like it. They wanted to be buried here so people would step on them when coming to church,” reassured
