RIPTIDE
Aug 17, 2021
3 minutes
Text by JARED PAUL STERN
n the world of extreme sports, there are few things as formidable, and hazardous, as big wave surfing. By big we’re talking 20 feet high or more, something nearly impossible for outsiders and casual riders to comprehend. American legend Shane Dorian, who quit championship competition surfing in 2003 to go all in on big waves, calls them “the ultimate challenge,” noting, “They can also present the ultimate life-or-death situation.” He makes the new from Rizzoli and authored by another surfing legend, Kai Lenny.
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