Ace of diamonds? The benefits of lab-made gems are far from clear cut

Diamonds have long been in the debt of marketing genius. Until the 1940s they were not a popular choice for engagement rings. Then, in 1947, a stroke of brilliance: De Beers’ “A Diamond is Forever” campaign. The slogan was a hit. The market trans-formed. Today diamond engagement rings are ubiquitous, winking from the windows of upmarket jewellers.

Earlier this year came another glittering moment in diamond PR. Pandora, the world’s largest jewellery retailer, announced it would be switching entirely to lab-made diamonds. The move generated positive headlines around the world as an “ethical stand against mined diamonds”.

Pandora is not alone. In 2020 De Beers invested in a lab-grown line, launching a facility to churn out