THE SEASON
FROM THE BRANCHES
Juniper Juniperus communis
Ancient, mystical and, these days, somewhat troubled, juniper is best known as the unmistakable backbone of gin. The female bushes sport the precious blue seed cones (we think of them as berries) that are fundamental to a decent gin, while the male bushes contribute the pollen essential for reproduction.
Sadly, British berries are almost universally bumped by gin distilleries for their Italian counterparts (quality and availability are to blame), but you can still pick them for the assertive punch they lend to sauces or even cakes. Alternatively, test out their magical reputation:
