ON THE TABLE Breaking Bread

ANDREW WALSH WAS a teenager in Ireland with a curious nature and a knack for trouble 24 years ago. Today, at 38, he’s one of the more influential chefs in Singapore, a well-trodden ground for the food-obsessed. He was running the dessert bar at Jason Atherton’s Pollen Street Social in London before coming to town in 2012 to head Esquina and The Study, also by Atherton.

But you didn’t really know him until 2015, when he opened Cure, a modern European restaurant on Keong Saik Road. Its name is’, or in other words, ‘to take care of’. While he keeps himself busy with other concepts like Butcher Boy, a contemporary Asian-fusion grill, and soon, a wine bar, Cure is where the heart is. It is cosy, understated and hits close to Walsh’s home with its offering of solid Irish cuisine. At Cure, seemingly unfussy food has been fussed over a great deal, proving a point that there’s more to Irish food than potatoes, and something as simple as a soda bread could ruin bread for you for a while. Here, we find out the significance behind Irish soda bread and what it means to be Andrew Walsh.