TOP 20 BUYS: SOAVE
To ‘know your label’ has never been sounder advice than it is in the case of Soave. This northern Italian classic white has many facets, and the best guide is the system of denominations which distinguishes styles and places of origin.
The first distinction to make is between DOC and DOCG versions of Verona’s native white.
The DOC is certainly the most familiar. Typically (but not necessarily) unoaked, this is where you find the canonical citrus and almond character in a light, dry, zingy wine which flows over the palate with seductive moreishness. It’s a style that fell a little out of favour in the past, perceived as overly simple, but it is currently reasserting itself with a new generation of winemakers. DOC Soave can’t be beaten for pure pleasure, and its apparent simplicity can be deceptive: a bottle forgotten at the back of the cellar for a few years can reveal intriguing complexity of aroma and a perfectly intact palate.
The DOCG is reserved for the Superiore category. In this case, production terms impose lower yields, resulting in wines of increased concentration and higher alcohols. Generally (but not always) oaked and aged for longer, this is Soave with greater richness of texture and a complexity that may come from later-harvested grapes. Think more tropical fruit than
