Decanter

CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

The ruined castle, eyes unblinking, stands over the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It acts as a beacon as you make your way towards it, weaving your way through miles of rolling, stony vineyards. Gnarled, knotted Grenache vines thrust their way through fields of rounded pebbles, offering blood-red grapes towards the blazing sun. You’re getting thirsty, and you know you’ll be drinking well soon.

When I first visited Châteauneuf, I was surprised by what I found. With its larger-than-life reputation, I expected some kind of wine-fuelled, pope-tastic theme park, but it’s still very much the working community

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