Australian Traveller

WELL RED

“WE’RE ALMOST IN THE OUTBACK NOW,” Geoff Scholz announces as we bounce along an undulating dirt road flanked by fields of low crops. It’s 30 kilometres since we passed Wudinna, the last town of any size on the northern Eyre Peninsula, and I’m struggling to figure out what’s changed. “Right... here,” he says triumphantly, easing his foot off the accelerator at the top of a small a rise. “Now you’ve got the outback on your right and the inside country on your left.”

It’s a strangely specific spot, but he points to a nearby sign to bolster his claim. Glancing over, I see it reads ‘Out Of Districts’. It’s one of hundreds of markers along Goyder’s Line, a gently curving doodle that meanders lazily across South Australian maps describing the land suitable for agriculture. Beyond this line the annual rainfall drops below 10 inches, and

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