A Rise in Rarities
Once, the challenge facing every distillery was consistency: how to create a Macallan 18 or a Pappy 23 that tasted like every other Macallan 18 or Pappy 23, no matter the vagaries of weather or warehousing. That’s now passé. Many distillers saw a need to attract new audiences and responded with relish, cask-aging whiskeys and tequilas—yes, now tequilas—for longer than ever, and we’re just now experiencing the exceptional results.
Only a few barrels can ever really go the long haul, and because the liquid evaporates over time, smaller and smaller quantities remain the more a spirit is aged. Of some ultimate rarities—say, a Dalmore 60—there might be just enough to produce a few decanters.
Such unique beauties seem destined to enter the auction market, where scarce bottles continue to dominate. But there are signs of slowing. At several recent Zachys auctions, a 45 Year Old Glenlivet with a top estimate of $2,800 failed to bring a single bid, and a two-bottle set of Ardbeg Auriverdes valued at $2,000 to $3,000 also received a pass. (Macallan, however, continues to command high prices: At one of the Zachys auctions, a bottle of Macallan 1982 Gran Reserva commanded well above predicted prices at $1,700.)
For the real excitement, turn to the rickhouse instead of the auction house. In addition to extensive time in cask, spirits are increasingly put into unique finishing vessels at distillers across genres, with rum and tequila now finished in bourbon-seasoned casks, scotch
