HOME WATERS A STING IN THE TAIL

With the light conditions it would be easy to lose concentration, but the signs were there: this was a dangerous place. Weed halfway up the lighthouses, folding seas around the headlands, 20-metre drop offs in the seabed. I wouldn’t want to be sailing to Ushant in any sort of wind or sea. Making our way up to the head of Baie De Lampaul we secured on a visitor buoy amongst five other boats. The water was crystal clear, cold at 14°, and with some long Atlantic swell I had a sense that I was on borrowed time. I would have to be quick in my search for Ushant honey.

I have sailed past this French island at the southwestern end of the English Channel many times, but had never been inclined to stop until a chance meeting with a couple in Brest. I had just arrived following 24 hours on the helm and a narrow escape from Biscay. The only other boat alongside was a small liveaboard, and with life seen, I had made my approach. On board was a fisherman and his partner who was a beekeeper from Ushant.