THE ITALIAN JOB

PART 3: AMALFI COAST, CAPRI AND SICILY

After a short visit home, we are back on board and heading south down Italy’s coastline. Below Rome, the maritime infrastructure starts to change: the ports are getting smaller, berths big enough for our Marlow 72 are becoming rarer and English is no longer widely spoken. Our first destination is San Felice Circeo, home of the sorceress Circe on Odysseus’s travels, and more prosaically the place we plan to meet our friends on Blue Bear.

When my email request for a berth goes unanswered, I call the harbour authorities only to discover that the port is full – the best laid plans of mice and men! Anzio or Nettuno are the nearest alternatives so we opt for Nettuno. The marina is large and offers excellent protection but the service leaves a lot to be desired, especially given the price of €210. We set off to find the old town of Nettuno, high above the port, and are pleasantly surprised to discover a beautiful little setting with several small squares and restaurants. A big Italian wedding spills out onto the steps of the church, adding to the spectacle.

We decide to stay another night and take advantage of the calm seas the following day to explore nearby Anzio by tender, then meet up with our sailing friends for dinner