GREENLAND
he helicopter is finally taking off. It’s my first time flying like this and, as we start levitating over the sea of icebergs below us, it feels as if a giant is gently picking us up with two fingers. We’re in the coastal town of Ilulissat, Greenland, heading toward the ice fields. As we reach the front of the ice sheet, the greens and blues of drowned icebergs become more vivid. But it isn’t time,
