White Horses

THE COLLECTOR

My fascination with surfboards had an inauspicious start. It was the early 1970s, I was 15 years old, and the shortboard revolution had been storming the coast for the past few years. Dad helped me fashion my own prototype by cutting down an old Malibu in our backyard shed. It wasn’t pretty, but it was mine.

We lived in a suburb of Perth, just south of the river, and like most grommets in the area I grew up surfing the Perth metropolitan breaks. But as soon as I had my driver’s license, I was off on the long drive south nearly every weekend, exploring the Yallingup to Margaret River coast. This would become the testing ground for all my experimentation with surfboards in the years that followed.

The late ’60s and early ’70s were a dynamic period for surfboard design and it was an exciting time to start a career as a shaper. Radical changes in surfboard shapes defined the era and experimentation was the norm. Like many other shapers,

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from White Horses

White Horses5 min read
The Levity Of Leah
A woman, grinning, in the sunlight. A 6’8 single fin and a perfect turquoise wave, moving at speed. These are some of the sweeter shapes that joy can take. The unique salty calligraphy of this particular flight pattern is in constant motion, inscribe
White Horses3 min read
The Carver
I’ve always been into timber work and my boat building apprenticeship heightened that interest, but during a trip to Hawaii in 2015 I saw this friendly-faced Hawaiian man carving a Tiki in a back alley market in Waikiki. He was wearing a singlet, sho
White Horses2 min read
The Librarian
I live at Avalon and I’m a PDHPE teacher (sports and health teacher) at the Northern Beaches Secondary College. About 17 years ago, two year-eight students asked if I had a spare fibreglass board for them. They were doing the Learn to Surf program. W

Related Books & Audiobooks