National Geographic Traveller (UK)

HONOLULU

“When a Hawaiian says ‘aloha’, you must respond with energy,” says the guitarist leading a hula group on Kuhio Beach. It’s a word imbued with love, compassion and respect — a catch-all for laid-back island life. It also captures the spirit of Honolulu: a city of shave ice and tropical print shirts, of shady lanais (verandahs), fragrant leis (garlands) and buff beach boys surfing as sunshine smacks off cool, blue water. The skies are bright year-round and the ocean infuses everything, from fresh poke bowls to stories of early voyagers arriving by canoe.

Aloha doesn’t preclude a sense of momentum, however — as evidenced by Honolulu’s lively fusion food scene and the murals of its de facto arts district, Kaka‘ako. The area once defined by warehouses and vacant lots is now home to SALT at Our Kaka‘ako, a trendy mixed-use market and retail space, and is the heart of the annual POW! WOW! Hawaii

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