The Atlantic

Antarctica Is Crammed With Abandoned ‘Ghost’ Stations

As wild and empty as the continent might seem, human ambition is changing it permanently.
Source: DeAgostini / Getty

In almost every sense of the word, the Palmer Archipelago in Antarctica is wild. Humpback whales, elephant seals, and the wandering albatross, a seabird with a wingspan as long as a male great white shark, all call this area home. Towering glaciers and blue-tinged icebergs dot the landscape, and sunsets last for hours.

This empty, untamed place also has a gift shop. Port Lockroy, a small wooden building, was constructed in 1944 as Britain’s first permanent Antarctic base, then abandoned in 1962. Twenty years later, two members of the British Antarctic Survey team visited the deserted station. Penguins were nesting right against the front door—it was “almost like a Narnia moment,” Alan Hemmings, now a professor at the University of Canterbury, in New Zealand, told us. Today, gentoo penguins still roost in the building’s outdoor rafters and peek curiously into the glass windows as tourists browse.

For most of the year, however, the building is uninhabited, like Antarctica itself—the coldest place on Earth ( cold), with wind speeds of up to 199 miles an hour. Only 4,000 people,

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