Travel Africa

nature’s call

On an afternoon drive, our open Land Cruiser bounced between sightings. We stopped to admire a lion. His scarred face and blunt teeth implied years of struggle for dominance in Mozambique’s Gorongosa National Park. This old cat would have witnessed much of the incredible revival unfolding here at the southern terminus of the Great Rift Valley. Gorongosa has recovered from a wasteland to a paradise described by legendary biologist E O Wilson as the most ecologically diverse park in the world. Seeing it with my own eyes was a dream.

We traversed fever tree forests, golden in the afternoon light. Elephants sauntered through atmospheric ana tree woodlands. Open floodplains bustled with waterbuck — I would say countless, but, in fact, they have been counted; there are 55,000. We wound through palm forests and past remnant oases, the leftovers of seasonal flooding. Antelope drank and vultures loitered. Fish eagles terrorised a pond in a primordial scene that had me half expecting a tyrannosaurus to charge through the dense palms.

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