THE FLOATING TEMPLES OF BALI

The people of Indonesia, the world’s largest archipelagic nation, have developed a diverse range of wooden boats throughout history. From one-man outrigger canoes hewn from a single tree, to sleek racing sampans with diamond-shaped paddles and houseboats of up to 120ft (37m) long, the country’s fleet of watercraft come in a fascinating array of shapes, styles and rigs.

For the past five years, I’ve travelled from my home in Bali to remote corners of Indonesia to learn about one of its most famous and beautiful vessels: the phinisi. Twin-masted schooners with seven sails that for centuries were used for raiding and trade in the archipelago, the phinisis have been brought back from the dead to cater to Indonesia’s burgeoning live-a-board cruising industry. Built by hand on remote beaches in Borneo and Sulawesi Province, and outfitted with all manner of creature comforts, they are among the most romantic and majestic wooden yachts afloat today.

While conducting my research I heard stories – rumours – of an even more beautiful kind of wooden ship built right here in Bali. The selerek,