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Separating champagne science from champagne dreams
Source: Issei Kato / Reuters

There is champagne, and then there is the idea of champagne.

Champagne is what people drink on New Year’s Eve. The idea of it is what gets smashed onto the hulls of yachts and sprayed on joyful men after championship games. “Champagne continually has to defend itself,” the wine columnist Hugh Johnson once wrote, “against the danger of becoming a

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