Poignant power of cheap food
EVERY SO OFTEN one of the national restaurant critics will take a break from visiting the latest buzzy joint in Shoreditch to review a place where ordinary people go, like a Wetherspoons or a Harvester. It’s a great opportunity to shoot some fish in a barrel though the exercise often leaves a nasty taste in the mouth, and not because of food.
It is not something one can imagine Grace Dent, restaurant critic for the Guardian, doing. In fact, much of the action in her splendid
