Scotland Magazine

THE NORSE ISLES

The NorthLink ferry slipped out of Aberdeen Harbour early evening and I slipped into a comfortable seat, safe in the knowledge that the outside world need not disturb me for at least the next 14 hours as the ferry and I sailed across the expanse of the North Sea, bound for the Shetland Islands. Of course, the ferry had rudimentary access to wifi but why not use a – relatively – long sea crossing to recharge the batteries instead of drain them. For half the delight of the Shetland Islands is the journey to reach them.

Thankfully, this trip was smoother than the last. A decade ago, my wife and I sailed to Shetland in, shall we say, ‘inclement conditions’ that rendered my wife violently seasick and me green around the gills for a considerable time after we reached safe harbour. On this crossing, however, I read, dined, retired to my cabin and slumbered contentedly as the ship gently rocked me to sleep. The next morning, I emerged invigorated and ready to explore this archipelago of wonders.

Since my last visit,, which has a rugged police detective played by Douglas Henshall solve at least one grizzly homicide per episode, despite the fact that such violent crime usually occurs once every 20 years here, if not even less frequently. Part of the appeal is the drama’s striking setting, with its long empty beaches and barren patchwork of brown and green islands populated by hardy characters.

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