Colour coded
dress in spectacular colour. At least that’s what Francesco Risso resolved when he presented Marni’s kaleidoscopic spring/summer ’20 show late last year. He had been visiting Brazil when the Amazon rainforests were on fire, and told he’d wanted to stage a “joyous protest” in response. Saffron yellow and cerise wildflowers bloomed from brushstrokes onto organic cotton dresses, as leafy stems grew tall on jackets made of repurposed leather. A similar spirit of activism bubbled at Gucci and Valentino. Alessandro Michele and Pierpaolo Piccioli filtered their collections through opening looks in snow white, as if to cleanse the mind in preparation for something new. And then Piccioli delivered gowns in highlighter hues of chartreuse,
