BBC Countryfile Magazine

FROM PEAK TO SPARKLING SEA

Spend five minutes picking your way along the rough and narrow footpath of a certain slender gorge near Beddgelert and you will find you’ve left the ordinary world behind and entered a new and enchanting realm.

The pellucid river by your feet swashes gently against the low rocks, mirror-smooth and eddy-sculpted, a fool’s stepping stones. The banks are draped with immense blankets of moss, pierced here and there by emerald ferns and elegant grasses. Crook-backed trees, their arms laid out across the river in supplication, form a canopy that all but blocks out the sky, washing the scene with an eerie green light. A flash of brown and white gives away the presence of a dipper patiently compiling a breakfast of larvae, fish and the odd mollusc. A score is provided by the steady low plash of rushing water, the trilling song of an unseen grey wagtail and the uptempo patter of your own heartbeat as you negotiate the

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