HEADLAND HEAVEN

You know you’re going somewhere special when the road is so narrow the yellow lines on either side practically touch each other. It all adds to the magic of the descent into the cosy, cocooning north-east-facing cove of Cwm-yr-Eglwys (Valley of the Church).

Here, quaint cottages huddle together in a narrow valley, sandwiched between Pembrokeshire’s dramatic, rugged coastal cliffs. This valley is all that links Dinas Head – often labelled on maps as Dinas Island – to West Wales, giving it an island-like feel without the need to cross water. The rising sea levels and freak storms we’re experiencing may