Decorative details TOILE DE JOUY

European fashions in the 17th century were fuelled by printed and painted cottons from the East. The trade had existed since the 16th century, but gained in strength with organisations such as the East India Company helping to create large markets. The fabrics, known as toiles peintes, or calicoes, found favour with a European clientele looking for versatile, light fabrics both for clothing and furnishings. In collaboration with the Eastern manufacturers, the trading companies were quick to exploit their customers’ tastes by producing export patterns that were skilfully tinged with the right mixture of Eastern exoticism.

Imported Indian cottons were known as Indiennes, a word that later became synonymous with the actual clothing into which it was made.